To start, a bit on Alpha Hydroxy Acids:
Throughout the last decade, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have
increasingly appeared as ingredients in cosmetics intended to reduce the signs
of aging in the sun. More recently, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) have appeared as
ingredients in skin care products. Beta Hydroxy acid works mainly as an
exfoliant. It causes the cells of the epidermis to become "unglued" allowing the
dead skin cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of new skin. Beta
hydroxy acid is reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled
pigmentation of photodamaged skin after months of daily application.
The Difference Between Alpha Hydroxy Acid and Beta Hydroxy Acid:
The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy
acid is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble
only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta
hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and
exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of this
difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with
blackheads and whiteheads than alpha hydroxy acid.
Beta hydroxy acid appears to be less irritating than alpha
hydroxy acid even though it penetrates deeper into the pore. This occurs because
salicylic acid is derived from acetylsalicylic acid, or aspirin. Aspirin has
anti-inflammatory properties, and salicylic acid retains many of these
anti-inflammatory properties. Despite this fact, beta hydroxy acid may still
cause some skin irritation.
BHAs can make your skin more sensitive and vulnerable to sun
damage, so be sure to use them in conjunction with a daily sunscreen that has at
least SPF 15 broad spectrum protection.
If you have any questions or
comments about this topic, please contact me by
e-mail.
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